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Alpine crossing Bernina Piz Palü and Piz Bernina

Climbing the Himmelsleiter (Heavenly Ladder) in the Festsaal der Alpen (Ballroom of the alps), 5 days

This high alpine crossing in the grandiose backdrop of the Bernina range is well worth striving for. Famous summits such as the Biancograt on the Piz Bernina 4049 m and the Eselsgrat on the Piz Roseg 3937 m await you. The Piz Morteratschas will be our acclimatization tour. Once we have got ourselves and our legs acclimatized these summits will be a pure pleasure to climb. The tour ends with the crossing of the Piz Palü. An equally challenging, breathtaking and scenically magnificent high-altitude tour with incomparable highlights.

Program

Day 1:
Meeting point 10:00 at the parking lot of the Diavolezza valley station. Here your mountain guide will greet you and check the equipment before he goes through the tour program with you. Our goal for today is the Boval Hut 2495m. Ascent 600 m, time on trail 3 hrs.

Day 2:
The 2nd day will lead us to the Vadret Boval Dadains glacier and further to the beginning of the rock face. With an easy, level II climbing section, we will reach the Boval Scharte 3347m. Then we will follow the northern flank to the summit of the Piz Morteratsch 3751m. From there we will head down via the Morteratsch glacier to the Tschierva Hut.Ascent 1300 m, descent 1200 m, time on trail 6 hrs.

Day 3:
With a light backpack, we will set off as it is still dark outside and hike via the Eselsgrad on the Piz Roseg 3937m. Climbing sections up to level III make the climbing part a bit challenging, but you will be rewarded by the most stunning views. After reaching the summit, we will head back down to the Tschierva Hut.
Ascent 1400 m, descent 1400 m, time on trail 8 hrs.

Day 4:
Today, our path will lead us up a via ferrata to the Fuorcla Prievlusa 3430m. This is the beginning of the most beautiful ridge in the Alps, the Biancograt. The very narrow and exposed firn-covered ridge will lead us to the Piz Bianco 3995m. From here, the firn-covered ridge turns into a rocky ridge including a level III climbing section that leads up the Piz Bernina 4049m. The descent is via the shorter but just as narrow Spallagrat, where 2 rappelling sections lead to the Italian Marco e Rosa Hütte 3597m. Ascent 1500 m, descent 400 m, time on trail 8 hrs.

Day 5:
We will start at 6:00 heading over the Bellavista terrace up to the Bellavista-Scharte 3688m. This less demanding ridge will lead us to the summit of the Piz Palü 3901m. The astounding panoramic view of the Bernina range will make every mountaineer’s heart beat faster. We will come down via the eastern ridge and after a short uphill section, we will reach the Diavolezza summit station at 2973m. Ascent 400 m, descent 1000 m, time on trail 6 hrs.

All important information

Character

Bernina Highlights Piz Palü und Piz Bernina

Requirements

Experience of high-altitude alpine tours, surefootedness, and a head for heights. Good physical condition for 8-10 hours of hiking, use of crampons up to a 40° steepness, and climbing passages up to a 3 UIAA difficulty level.

Meeting point

10:00 am at the parking lot of the Diavolezza valley station

Dates

July / August upon request

No. of Participants

1 - 2 people per mountain guide

Additional Charges

Drinks
4 nights with half board
Lift ticket
European travel insurance – on request, we can send you an offer

Prices

2 persons € 1185,- per person
1 person € 2370,-

Total Time

5 days

We provide

  • 5 organised touring days
  • Tour with a state certified IVBV mountain guide
  • Rental glacier & rock equipment

Important informationen 
DOWNLOAD as PDF file
(general information, equimpent lists, useful links and more)

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